Serums play a major role in many aspects of our lives. Whenever the term is used, it is meant to express that there is no better agent. Doctors administer serums against diseases or poisons (wonderful), intelligence agencies use them to extract the truth from agents (scary), beauty specialists achieve a stop (or at least a slowdown) of skin aging with them (great). So, since there are neither doctors nor agents in the 48grams editorial team, this article refers to the dermatological benefits that skincare serums can achieve. And of course, we're proud to say that Antioxidant Booster Serum is our all-time best seller. But more on that later.
How a serum works in the skin
First, a few general words: serums are comparable to a concentrate of valuable ingredients. The mostly oily liquid penetrates deep into the tissue and improves the face sustainably after a short period of use. But how exactly does this miracle product work? In order to understand that, let's make a short excursion about the skin as such. The skin is known to be our largest organ and consists of several layers, including the epidermis and the dermis. The outermost layer, the so-called stratum corneum, serves as a protective barrier; it prevents the penetration of foreign substances. This barrier consists mainly of dead skin cells that slowly slough off and renew themselves.
The magic of serums: small molecules
This is where serums come into play. The formulations (colloquially: recipes) are designed to contain tiny molecules that penetrate this barrier more easily. An example of this is hyaluronic acid (specifically: oligo), peptides or retinol. Research has produced innovative technologies that further enhance this penetration. So-called liposomes. These are really tiny fat molecules that lock active ingredients into their structure and allow targeted release. So liposomes are the snipers of derma research.
Serum - better water-soluble or fat-soluble?
But there are also clear differences in the structure of serums. Research is focusing on both water-soluble and fat-soluble serums. Basically, the type of formulation influences how well the liquid can penetrate the skin. Water-soluble serums, which consist primarily of water-based ingredients (e.g., vitamin C or hyaluronic acid), migrate more easily into the tissues (because the molecules are smaller). The fat-soluble serums (they have an oily base) need a little more time to penetrate the skin. But: in return, the effect is longer-lasting hydration and nourishment. Both types of serums are good and important. However, only the customer can give the target definition.
The science of serums
Want to get a little more scientific? Here you go! You might be able to show off a bit at the next party. The key to success - as previously mentioned - in the optimal molecule size. Studies have shown that molecules with a size of less than 500 daltons (unit for measuring molecular mass) work most efficiently. One example is the oligo-hyaluronic molecule. It glides deeply and lasts long. This helps to moisturize and plump up the skin. Now here are a few more examples of deep penetrating serums and their effects:
The miracle called OPC
In the great world of skin care, it is considered a real star: OPC. This skin powerhouse (an extract from grape seeds) has earned a permanent place on beauty product shelves and is hailed as a miracle cure for a youthful complexion and glowing skin. OPC is an antioxidant with extraordinary power; a powerful defender against so-called free radicals, which are created by environmental stresses such as UV radiation and pollution. These "radicals" can damage cells and lead to premature skin aging. Through its antioxidant effect, OPC counteracts these problems and protects the skin from visible signs of time. Another impressive effect lies in its ability to stimulate collagen production. With age, the natural production of this endogenous substance decreases, leading to wrinkles and sagging skin. Thus, it is clear why the Antioxidant Booster Serum is the best seller of 48grams (we apologize for this somewhat flat advertising - but we had to get rid of that here).
Skin renewal with retinol
When it comes to effective active ingredients in skin care, retinol, a form of vitamin A, also has a top spot. This active ingredient has the outstanding ability to boost the speed of skin renewal. It influences the activity of keratinocytes (the main cells of the epidermis), thus promoting the process of shedding dead skin cells. The effect: accelerated turnover provides a radiant and smooth skin appearance. In addition to stimulating collagen (yeah right!) and improving skin texture, retinol has the ability to reduce pigmentation and even out skin tone. The ingredient can even minimize pore size and improve the appearance of acne scars.
Peptides provide firmer skin
Tiny amino acid chains called peptides have become real heroes in the world of skin care. These tiny molecules are able to penetrate the deepest layers of the skin and target collagen production there. By stimulating synthesis, peptides help combat the loss of skin firmness and elasticity. In a sense, they act as a signaling device for the skin to produce more collagen, thus strengthening the support structure. The result? A firmer and plumper tissue. Some peptides can even cross the blood-brain barrier. This means they can also be applied to the scalp: Peptides promote the growth of healthy hair.