Do you have a favorite active ingredient? We recently asked skincare guru Bernd Kuhs this question over a cup of mate tea. A glance at the INCI list of the Mallorca resident's creations reveals some unusual, but always highly effective ingredients: Edelweiss, mastic oil, OPC, niacinamide. Clearly, dry skin needs hydration, dark circles and crow's feet should disappear, and a damaged skin barrier needs support in its healing process. Kuhs' intentions are obvious – but a preference isn't readily apparent. His answer surprised us, the members of the blog editorial team, and prompted a flurry of online research. "Currently, squalane is my absolute favorite," said the master of masks, creams, and serums.
To combat dryness, for suppleness
Ah, squalane? The first thing we found was that it's a skin-identical lipid. Sounds plausible, but—well—not exactly groundbreaking. But after a few moments of Googling, we got the answer: "This active ingredient gives high-quality cosmetic products a luxurious, silky texture; ...makes the tissue supple and counteracts dehydration." Okay, now we know why the skincare guru "loves" this particular ingredient. Now we want to enlighten you, our readers.
13 percent of the skin's lipids
First, the bare facts: On an ingredient list, the active ingredient appears as squalane (pronounced squa-leen). To make things a bit more complicated: The component of human sebum is called squalene – the "e" makes all the difference. At around 13 percent, this active ingredient is one of the main components of sebum. It prevents so-called transdermal water loss, thus stabilizing the moisture content and ensuring the health of the skin barrier. This also (briefly) explains what the pure substance squalane means for facial tissue. For those wondering why science can't simply use this naturally occurring substance, the answer is: Squalene oxidizes – that is, decomposes – upon contact with sunlight. Fortunately for today's dermocosmetics, the Japanese researcher Mitsumaru Tsujimoto was able to extract the identical substance as early as 1906. Specifically, from the livers of sharks. But more on that later.
Absorbs quickly, non-greasy
Pure squalane has been commercially available for a long time. It's a light, almost silky oil. 100ml costs between 10 and 16 euros. That's not really much money for so much nourishing potential. You can apply it directly to your skin and enjoy how quickly it absorbs. There's no greasy residue whatsoever. The same applies to hair, by the way. Simply massage a few drops of the oil into wet hair – the result is a beautiful shine.
Squalane – the “hidden champion”
But back to facial skin. Or rather, to cosmetics. Even though squalane has also been used there for several years, the hydrocarbon compound is still considered a beauty secret. A "hidden champion," so to speak. Even for us here at the blog.
Antioxidant, against pimples and blackheads
Squalane is – one could say – a sustainable and natural alternative to mineral oil in cream products today. And that's an important point. It's particularly gentle – and therefore ideally suited for use on sensitive or stressed skin. Because it has an antioxidant effect, it prevents oil oxidation on the skin AND it doesn't clog pores.In both cases, the same wonderful effect is achieved: the formation of pimples and blackheads is significantly suppressed or, in many cases, prevented.
The skin is hydrated from the inside out.
Furthermore, studies have shown that it is helpful for dermatitis (skin inflammation), psoriasis, and seborrhea (i.e., excessive sebum production). It is also known that squalane penetrates the tissue 20 times deeper than other moisturizing oils. The result is therefore similar to that of short-chain hyaluronic acid. The skin is hydrated from within. The risk of dehydration decreases significantly – fine lines and wrinkles visibly diminish. Now that's a promising prospect. And the final explanation for why skincare guru Bernd Kuhs is so enthusiastic (he incorporated this miracle ingredient into the 48grams formulations). Day 'N Night Cream (integrated).
Of sharks, olives and sugar cane
But now back to the sharks. Many will have wondered at this mention: Why is squalane allowed in vegan cosmetics? Yes, the active ingredient's name is derived from the Latin word "squalus," meaning shark. And yes, the active ingredient is indeed found in excessive amounts in the liver of this fish species. Squalane was previously extracted from their oil. However, to put your mind at ease: This highly popular beauty booster is now only used in vegan versions in cosmetic products. Scientists first extracted the active ingredient from olives as early as 1935 – still the most common method today. However, sugar cane, amaranth, and wheat germ oil are also now known sources of squalane.
