Squalane - the healing power for the skin barrier
Do you have a favorite active ingredient? We asked Skincare Pope Bernd Kuhs this question over a cup of mate tea. If you look at the INCI list of his creations, you will find ingredients there that are sometimes unusual, but always extremely effective: Edelweiss. Mastic oil. OPC. Niacinamide. Clearly, dry skin needs to be moisturized, dark circles or crow's feet should disappear, and a damaged skin protective barrier needs support in healing. Kuhs' intentions are obvious - but a preference cannot be deduced from this. His answer then surprised members of the blog editorial team and first made us frantically research on the Internet. "At the moment, squalane is my absolute favorite," said the master of masks, creams and serums.
Against dehydration, for suppleness
Squalane? The first thing we found was the info that it's a skin-identical lipid. Sounds reasonable, but - well - not super spectacular. But after a few moments of googling, then the resolution: "The active ingredient gives high-quality cosmetic products a luxurious, silky texture; ...makes the tissue supple, acts against dehydration" Okay, now we know why the Skincare Pope "loves" this active ingredient of all things. Now we want to enlighten you, our readers, about it too.
13 percent of skin fat
First the pure facts: On an ingredient listing, the active ingredient is found as squalane. But to make it a little more complicated: The ingredient in human skin lipids is called squalene - the "e" makes the difference here. At around 13 percent, the active ingredient is one of the main components in sebum. It prevents so-called transdermal water loss, thus stabilizing the moisture content and ensuring the health of the skin barrier. This also (briefly) explains what the pure substance squalane means for the tissue in the face. If you are now wondering why the body's own substance can't be used by science, let me tell you: squalene oxidizes - i.e. decomposes - when it comes into contact with sunlight. Fortunately for today's derma cosmetics, the Japanese researcher Mitsumaru Tsujimoto was able to extract the identical substance as early as 1906. From the liver of sharks. But more about that later.
Quickly absorbed, non-greasy
Pure squalane has been commercially available for a long time. It is a light, downright silky oil. 100ml costs between 10 and 16 euros. That's not really a lot of money for so much skin care potential. You can apply it directly to the skin and be pleased that it absorbs quickly. There is no trace of a greasy film. The same applies to the hair, by the way. Simply massage a few drops of the oil into wet hair - the result is a beautiful shine.
Squalane - the hidden champion
But back to facial skin again. Or rather to cosmetics. Even though squalane has also been used there for several years, the hydrocarbon compound is still considered a beauty secret. A "hidden champion," so to speak. Also for us in the blog editorial office.
Antioxidant, against pimples and blackheads
Sqaulane is - you can say it - today a sustainable and natural substitute for mineral oil in cream products. And that's an important point. It is particularly low in irritants - and therefore ideally suited for use on sensitive or stressed skin. Because it has an antioxidant effect, it prevents fat oxidation on the skin AND it doesn't clog pores. So in both cases, the same wonderful effect: the formation of pimples and blackheads is significantly suppressed or, in many cases, prevented.
The skin is hydrated from the inside
In addition, studies have shown that it is helpful for dermatitis (skin inflammation), psoriasis and seborrhea (i.e. sebum overproduction). It is also known that squalane penetrates 20 times deeper into the tissue than other moisturizing oils. So the result is similar to short-chain hyaluronic. The skin is hydrated from the inside. The risk of dehydration decreases significantly - wrinkles or fine lines recede noticeably. Now that's a nice prospect. And the final explanation for why Skincare Pope Bernd Kuhs is so enthusiastic (in the 48grams formulations, he has integrated the miracle cure into the Day 'N Night Cream).